FlavBlog

This summer we’ve been treated to great tacos at Tako Truk and just last night we enjoyed a repeat of Kye Soon Hong and Eric Vigessa’s outstanding Korean Tacos on Eric and Dawn Wright’s patio (see Gourmet’s recipe and post about the Korean tacos by Matthew-Amster Burton which we missed the first time, and blog post via Rebekah Denn).  Tacos can be fun to make, so differently construed, and be filled with great flavor combos and textures, so I checked out “Tacos,” by Mark Miller at the public library (after an NPR recommendation). A quick perusing and I know we are going to love this cookbook. Rarely, do I buy a cookbook without testing out a few recipes first, but this could be the cookbook for the year and it’s only August. Even before we’ve cooked anything, we are salivating at the 75 options of tacos filled with things like squash blossoms, nopales, wild mushrooms, duck, squid, pork, bacon, or even elk. (Not sure where I can find elk meat in Seattle, but I am sure I could order some).

Saturday midday, we drove to a Pike’s Market, University Market, and Whole Foods to collect all the items we needed. I don’t think I have ever purchased as many dried or fresh chilies in one day as we did yesterday. Our car was filled with the hot spicy scent of capsicum for several hours. Fortunately, Seattle has the true gem when it comes to the purchase of bulk spices, World Spice Merchants. Any spice you want or don’t know you want, they will have it or they will recommend a place to get it. I needed a “few” spices so I created the list and passed it along to the merchants to prepare! My list for chilies included: Ancho, Chipotle, Guajillo, New Mexico, Passilla Negro, and Pasilla de Oaxaca whole and a few more were grounded or flaked. While we waited for the packaging of the spices we headed to El Mercado Latino, a small grocery near Pike’s Market. Surprisingly, we bought all the Mexican ingredients we needed: corn tortillas, queso oaxaca, expazote, and crema Mexicano. Next stop Tonnemaker Family Orchard, at the University District’s farmer’s market. By far, the Tonnemaker Family have the largest selection of fresh chilies and peppers I have ever seen in an open market. Their collection ranges from the hottest to mildest varieties. Vibrant colors of reds, orange, green and yellow overflow the white boxes, small medium and large sizes to choose from. I walked away with 10 different chilies and peppers totaling only a few dollars. Close to the University farmer’s market we usually swing by University Seafood and Poultry for their “fresh-fresh” wild local St. Jude albacore tuna . OMG…we feel this is the best tuna we have had all summer and for $6.95 lb, it’s a steal. The rest of the supplies were from other vendors at the farmer’s market or via Whole Foods.

The menu is now set for the week and we will report on the highlights at the end.

• Bacon, Eggs, Red Chile, and Honey Taco
• Squash Blossoms with Green Chilies and Cheese
• Seared Tuna Taco
• Sonoran Chicken with Nopales Taco
• Classic Ground Beef with Guajillo Chile
• Accompaniments include Tomatillo-Avocado Sauce, Mexican Crema, Roasted Pineapple-Habanero Chile Salsa,  and Salsa Fresca

In a quiet area just off Denny and the corner of 5th, sits Tilikum Place Cafe. With a shortage of restaurants near the Seattle Center, it is a worth a visit, especially if you are in the area for a performance. We look forward to visiting during the regular Seattle Opera season, but we stopped by for an early dinner during the 2nd week of the Seattle’s Wagner Ring Cycle. It is one of the few places we know you can actually sit down to eat at 4 pm (Operas during the Ring start at 6).

With a group of 6 we tried a wide variety of dishes and specials. To start off with cocktails, Michael had the Maritime IPA and I had a cocktail of vodka, peach bitters, and sage. Both drinks provided a refreshing start for the hot evening. The starter dish we ordered was a grilled quail, blueberries, greens, almond corn cake with a little chili oil. The grilled quail was cooked perfectly, moist inside-crispy outside, coupled with the sharpness of the tart blueberries and the bitterness of the greens it made for an immediate delight. The dish was actually served as an entree the evening before, but we grabbed it to split since there was only one order left. Our next course  consisted of the Spanish white anchovies with beet caviar, pickled shallots and a little frisee and a side of baked beans. I know, why the baked beans, well we feel that these “standard” beans can make or break a restaurant. Tilikum’s baked beans definitively made the cut. A great portion of beans, maple sugar sweet, and chunks of salty pork. I could  have licked the bowl, but I held out. The Spanish anchovies were fresh and salty with beet and picked shallots. The beets could have been prepared a little different, because they didn’t provide enough contrast to the shallots and anchovies.

Our main dishes consisted of the Moroccan chicken with white bean and mint soup and the housemade pork terrine with cherry moustarda and cincinnati radishes. Even on a warm summer evening the soup was an amazing blend of rich chicken broth, chicken pieces, vegetables, and spicy flavors-probably cayenne. It makes me look forward to the fall. The pork terrine had solid pieces of shredded pork that easily spread onto baguette slices. The radishes created the crunchy texture contrast with the silkiness of the terrine. Other members of our party had the savory tart with goat cheese and summer squash and the pan seared chicken with toasted dumpling and vegetables. There were mixed reviews of the savory tart because there was too much pastry and little of the filling. While some dishes were a huge hit, others were still pretty good, regardless we hope that Tilikum Place Cafe is here to stay, as we are in dire need of solid restaurant choices for Opera or theatre nights in the Seattle Center area.

TILIKUM PLACE CAFE

407 Cedar Street

Seattle, WA 98121

(206) 282-4830

After visiting Portland in July where we went on a food craze through the city tasting several great dishes right from street carts we were both excited to hear that Tako Truk was just down a little ways from Capitol Hill on Eastlake, set up in the evenings toward weekends out of the 14 Carrot Cafe.  Tako Truk is run by Cormac Mahoney, formerly of Sitka and Spruce (across the street).  We have visited Tako Truk twice.  The first time they didn’t have any of their signature taco (TakoTaco) left when we arrived later in the evening so we went again; and because we heard that they change up the other taco selections frequently.

Tako Truk is open Thursday through Saturday from 6pm to 12am ,give or take a few minutes, but they usually are all out of tacos by 10pm.  (Cash Only!).  You can bundle the taco order, 3 for $5 or buy them solo.  5-7 of them for two keeps us happy.  Tako Truk is in many ways even more simple than a street cart, in that they have no “truk” , except for a plastic toy and a make shift podium signed by visitors painted with their name.  Above hangs a small sign that says Tako Truk, easily missed if you aren’t looking carefully when you drive by.

-Vegetarian Taco

A sweet potato taco filled with a crunchy coleslaw containing two types of cabbage, and a curry-like spice.  This taco surprised me in flavor.  The soft sweet potatoes inside contrasted nicely with the crunchy texture of the green and red cabbage on top.  Again the taco has potent spice flavors which aren’t hidden like some tacos I’ve had.  We have also tried a curried eggplant with chickpeas that was decent, although not a memorable as the sweet potato option.

-Tako Taco

Tako Taco (Octopus)

Their signature taco is called the Tako Taco (Tako = Octopus), which is filled with carefully grilled Octopus, carmelized onions, yogurt, and a spicy red sauce containing chorizo flavor.  The tacos have a nice sourness from the yogurt, great sweetness from onion, grilled flavor and heat kick at the end.

-Pork Taco (Coco Piggy)

This was on the menu both times we visited, and we were glad it was.  Piggy is filled with coconut braised pork shoulder, pork fat and bits and topped with crispy fries (sometime pork rinds) to add a crunchy texture.  It was delicious on both occasions and consistently prepared each time we visited.

Left to Right: Sweet Potato, Beef, Coco Piggy

-Beef Taco

Again, they tend to change the contents of the beef choice frequently, but the one we had was excellent.  A slow braised rich shredded beef in a sweet spicy sauce accompanied by papaya.  The acid from the papaya, sweet and spicy beef, and crunch made for really fun bites.

-Chicken Taco

We’ve had two types of these.  The better one was  the Chicken Adobo.  The Adobo sauces tasted like others I’ve had, but a bit spicier which I liked.  This also has been known to be topped with tiny string-like fries which add a nice crunch.

For drinks at Tako Truk they have a nice lime drink, or you can take your tacos next door to Zoo bar if you fancy a pint of beer and a game of pool.  Tako Truk is a quick, cheap, and tasty spot.  I wish Seattle had more creative cheap food spots like Tako Truk.  I always say this, but when you go to Portland and walk the streets, sampling from cart after cart of food stuffing your belly silly, you’ll understand.  The Tako Truk was allegedly a summer experiment, and might not be around for too long.  That would be a loss for Seattle’s growing street food scene, so we’re hoping that they can find a permanent spot, or simply continue the good thing they have going with Carrot 14.

TAKO TRUK

2305 Eastlake Ave E

Seattle, WA 98102

Selection of fresh local chicken and pheasant eggs

Do you ever wonder where to get eggs? Most people purchase them in the refrigerator section of their grocery store. However, if you get a chance to get fresh farm eggs, grab them quick. A friend of mine lives on a small acreage on Whidbey Island. She has some feathered friends: turkeys, pheasants, a variety of chickens, and geese. Last winter I asked her for goose eggs because I had never had them and wondered how they would taste compared to a standard chicken egg.  By spring though, the geese went broody and stopped laying, but she managed to gather and share 3 varieties of chickens and a few pheasant eggs for our consumption.

The three variety of chicken eggs included: buff Orpington, silver-grey Dorking, and buff brahm Bantam with the addition of a ring necked pheasant egg (photo presents this order). The size and color of the egg shells clearly separate the difference between the eggs.  The buff Orpington (large brown) and the silver-grey Dorking (large white) have standard shells that cracked like any other egg I previously purchased. However, the ring necked pheasant (small dark brown/olive) and the buff brahm Bantam (small brown) had thick dense shells. I was actually concerned about breaking the yolk, but successfully I kept them all intact. I have never made so many eggs before, so thankfully I had my mom and Michael to help taste.

The base I prepared combined slices of yellow onions and coined Yukon gold potatoes with a little sea salt and pepper, which is a standard brunch base for us on the weekends. First, I sauteed the onions just until they were soft and then set them aside from the heat,while the potatoes boiled in salted water. After 8-10 minutes, I could pierce the potatoes with a knife. I drained the potatoes and once they cooled cut them into round circular disks. Because I wanted to taste the subtle differences between the eggs, I poached all the eggs. In my opinion, it allows for the best egg tasting experience; you get the delicate fluffiness of the egg white and the richness of creamy yolk. While the eggs were poaching, I sauteed the onions and potatoes in a little butter and extra virgin olive oil and kept them on warm until the eggs were done. After plating the onion and potato hash first, I added a pheasant and Bantam egg to each plate topped with some chopped flat-leaf parsley. The Dorking and Oprington, I plated separately.

The tasting results: We all more or less agreed with the outcome. The pheasant egg had a lighter softer yolk with a delicate gamier flavor. The Bantam yolk was the largest in proportion to egg white and only had a little more flavor than the pheasant egg. It tasted like any other egg (from the grocery store). The best would be a combination of the Dorking and Orpington. While the Dorking’s egg white was airy, fluffy, and full of texture, the Orpington’s yolk had a rich silkiness that surpassed the other eggs.  As the yolk spilled over the sweet onions and salty potatoes, it created an excellent balance. Get out of the grocery store and go to a local farm/market to see if you can get your hands on any Dorking or Orpington chicken eggs.

I enjoy good beer, the only thing left for me to do is to make it myself (something I’m in serious discussion/thought about doing). By beer I don’t mean the absolute crap, that the politicians in D.C. suck down in the name of votes, I’m referring to beer that has complex flavor, that says life is good, that is usually not mass produced, that can give you a headache after one glass, and that uses a careful selection of ingredients.  This summer is no different because I’ve been tasting some outstanding beer.  I thought it was only appropriate to do a gigante post on some adventures around beer that I’ve enjoyed this summer. This includes travels that had a beer adventure, a great book on beer I read, a festival I attended, and a recipe we made involving brew.

I’d like to start with a book I read after a recommendation by Seed Magazine called Froth: The Science of Beer. I actually picked up a copy on our recent “food rampage” trip to Portland (link via Dawn and Eric, Wright Eats) which of course always includes an hour or more in Powell’s City of Books.  Mark Denny writes for all types of readers because he puts the more difficult math and science it at the end of the chapter so people can skim or skip it if they aren’t into math.  He talks about where the bubbles in beer come from, how they move about the glass, and why different types of beer have their various characteristics.   He dives into the history and advances in beer making, not forgetting to describe in depth how and why America has 3-4 major “macro-breweries” that manufacture what he basically calls excrement.  Upon reading this book, I learned quite a bit about the whole process for the microbrew and the homebrewer.  I have a totally new appreciation for how vital the strain of yeast is in making a quality beer.  By weaving in the science  I now feel like I really understand how beer is constructed like through a trial an error process, how it gets its amazingly divergent flavor profile, and the beauty of the variety in hops and malt selection.

Here are a few of the beers that I’ve recently tasted and enjoyed:

Dog Fish Head Palo Santo Marron: ABV 12% | Dog Fish

This is beer is a very serious brown ale aged in handmade wooden brewing barrels. The casks are made from Paraguayan Palo Santo wood.   Palo Santo means “holy tree” and this wood has been used in many South American wine-making communities.  The pour was all coffee and caramel-like in the glass.  The head doesn’t stay around very long, but there is a bit of it left around the edge of the glass after it falls.  This beer was very smokey on the initial smell, with a rum like quality that made me think of a Captain Morgan being poured.  The taste profile was quite different from a standard brown ale…it was much more complex with dark fruit (maybe even a little fig), coco, and some definite smoked wood flavor.  The mouthfeel wasn’t its strongest suit because it seemed a bit more watery than one would expect for all the complexity of the taste.  The mouthfeel would not deter me from absolutely recommending it however.  You will notice that it has very high alcohol content (12% ABV) so  it is a sipping beer for sure.  I’d like to try another one on a rainy day in fall when this darker stuff is more typical of what I drink during that season.

Double Wide India Pale Ale: ABV 8.5% | Boulevard Brewing Co.

I used to drink Boulevard beers (Kansas City, MO) back when I lived in Nebraska.  It was one of the few decent local micros on tap in many of dingy bars I hung out in as a poor Ph.D student.  However, back then Boulevard was mostly known for their Boulevard Wheat beer, which is very popular in that area and served with lemon.  So when I noticed the Double Wide IPA on the shelf I was nearly in shock that they made such a potent brew.  To be frank, I wasn’t expecting the pungent-like qualities of the Northwest IPA I enjoy regularly out here in Seattle.  This beer poured like a champagne.  It has a monster head with larger bubbles and even by pouring slowly it didn’t stop it from showing itself (see pic).  This IPA is pretty hoppy and zingy with more lemon citrus than orange or lime flavors and it is also fuller texture than some NW IPAs.  They also have a Single Wide IPA which I just picked up today and will be curious to see how Boulevard’s standard IPA tastes.

Portland Beer Festival: Portland, OR

While down in Portland four of us stopped by the Beer Festival (July 17-19) in the Pearl district in downtown PDX.  It was 20 bucks a head including a 4oz free taster glass and 20 beer tickets which typically average about 1 dollar each.  Some beer tastings are 1 ticket, others can be up to 8.  The festival was very well organized and had one side dedicated to draft choices, the other for beers out of the bottle (including aged Belgian Ales, etc).  The highlight at the festival was the beer that we all pooled our tickets together to taste called the DeuS (Brut Methode Champagnoise).  This beer was being called “epic” by the festival organizers so we had to wait in the long line to taste it but it did not disappoint.  It is one of the more fascinatingly complex beers I’ve ever tasted.  The Deus is brewed by Bosteels Brewery, it is then shipped to the Champagne region of France to undergo the full Methode Champenoise (one of two in the world that does so) which really makes this brew special.  The taste was uncharacteristic of many belgian brews.  We all agreed that it had some major flavor components that stood out (and this is a simplification to be fair):  Mr Clean pine cleaner, JagerMeister, Sprite, syrup.  So this isn’t really a beer you drink with a brat or slab of ribs.  This is for sippin’.  I’ve never seen it in any of the beer shops, but it allegedly sells for between 40-60 a bottle.

Powerhouse Brewery | Puyallup Washington.

We stopped in recently for a bite to eat and to taste few of their beers.  I was quite impressed on a number of counts.  First of all the building was refinished from an old railroad powerhouse right smack in the middle of Puyallup’s downtown.  It is a tiny place inside and doesn’t appear to seat that many people, but it has a unique “power” theme throughout.  The beers I tried were all above average.  The Summer Seasonal ale was a little hopped and had a nice bitterness that many summer ales lack in my opinion.  Robin had a nice Belgian White, that wasn’t as sweet as they usually are, but still had a nice balance of malt and hops.  The 4 Alarm Nitro Stout was outstanding with a rich texture as typical from a nitro but it carried nice coffee flavors, tobacco, and dark chocolate.  The IPA was traditional for the northwest, but well crafted with quite of bit of citrus zing and yet not overloaded bitter hop taste.  The food is as typical for a brewpub, well below our standards.

Finally, a beer themed dessert recipe that we recently enjoyed.  It started with a bottle of SteelHead Scotch Porter (ABV 6%, Mad River Brewing).  This beer has a dark and roasted malt flavor.  It also has a wonderful nuttiness and a hint of chocolate.  We imagined it would go perfectly with cherries in a cherry porter ice cream after being inspired by some food blogs and Boundry Bay Brewery in Bellingham Washington who serves Cherry-porter ice cream from time-to-time.  The recipe was adapted from David Lebovitz’s vanilla version. We also accompanied the ice cream with a Cherry Frangipane Galette (via Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook)

Cherry Porter Ice Cream

1 cup (250ml) whole milk

A pinch of salt

3/4 cup (150g) sugar

2 cups (500ml) heavy cream

5 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (if you want)

1 cup pitted, halved Bing cherries

1/2 cup  of nice rich Porter

1/4 cup corn syrup

1. Heat cherries, Porter and corn syrup in a heavy bottomed sauce pan until reduced by about a quarter. Set aside to cool.

2. To make the ice cream, set up an ice bath by placing a 2-quart (2l) bowl in a larger bowl partially filled with ice and water. Set a strainer over the top of the smaller bowl and pour the cream into the bowl.

3. Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a saucepan until sugar is dissolves, then set aside.

4. In a separate bowl, stir together the egg yolks. Rewarm the milk then gradually pour some of the milk into the yolks, whisking constantly as you pour. Scrape the warmed yolks and milk back into the saucepan.

4. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom with a heat-resistant spatula, until the custard thickens enough to coat the spatula.

5. Strain the custard into the heavy cream. Stir over the ice until cool, add the vanilla extract, then refrigerate to chill thoroughly. Preferably overnight.

6. Freeze the custard in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.  Then fold-in the Cherry Porter mixture carefully with a spatula by hand.

The ice cream tastes roasted and nutty with a hint of tartness from the cherries, and a rounded cream texture.

Cherry Porter Ice Cream with a slice of Cherry-Frangipane Galette