FlavBlog

October 2, 2011

SALT | Sour Beer Dinner

Filed under: Beer,Restaurants,St. Louis — Tags: , — admin @ 6:33 pm

We’ve been visiting Wes Johnson’s SALT since he opened it late last spring.  We live within walking distance to this converted old mansion formerly the location of Savor restaurant.  Given its close proximity to our home, focus on local ingredients, and fresh seasonal menu, we’ve had several dinners and brunch at Salt. Wes has been racking up the awards recently:  RTF’s best new restaurant and winner of the Chef battle at Taste STL. We have generally enjoyed dining at Salt, and we’ve watched Wes grow and enhance the restaurant over the last 6 months.  Robin found out via twitter (@enjoysalt) that Wes and co. were planning a beer and wild game dinner, featuring her favorite, sour beer, so we couldn’t pass it up.

On prior trips to Salt we’ve enjoyed several dishes, that are now basically permanent members of the menu.  The “seared scallop” with mustard, cedar smoke, and herbs is one of our favorite dishes, comes served in a tiny mason jar, and traps the cedar smoky goodness inside…for us, one of the better seafood dishes we’ve had in St. Louis.  Wes also prepares a fantastic lamb dish, well seasoned and cooked perfectly on the rare side with herbs and jelly. In addition, they make a now somewhat famous sorghum lacquered duck, and duck-fat fried chicken.  The trend here is that Wes likes to use more non-traditional meat varieties…he takes a more creative, risky approach to his cooking than many of the other chefs in St. Louis.  (This isn’t to say we don’t have adventurous chefs, just not as many as we should).

The beer portion of the sour beer dinner was largely organized and put together in a team fashion.  Chris Shea (Morgan Street Brewery, Assistant Brew Master) and bar manager Matt Obermark worked with Wes Johnson to pair some rare sour beers with wild game dishes influenced by seasonal autumn flavors.  The dinner took place deep in the old mansion’s wine cellar at a large communal table and was presented family style with generous platters for all of us to share.

Blog SBD

(more…)

September 12, 2011

Pucker Up: Sour Beer

Filed under: Beer,Breweries,St. Louis — Tags: — admin @ 8:27 pm

Most of the time I hate it when things are too unpredictable, except lately when tasting sour beers, I have found a totally different mindset. Sour beers, which include (Lambics, Gueuzes, and Flanders red ales) probably involve the most risk, and most uncertainty of any brew process. While in the barrel, sour beer undergoes some of the most exquisite changes and complexities. Since my first taste of them a couple of years ago, I have became hooked, and prefer them to any other beer type.

When living in Seattle last year we attended the “Sour Beer Fest” and we began to see a larger selection of sours in the stores. I grabbed every bottle I could prior to leaving for St. Louis and I have continued to build and grow our collection on trips to Europe (Belgium and Italy). Fortunately, The Wine and Cheese Place and Lukas Liquor here in St. Louis have provided some worldwide favorites and I have greatly increased our inventory. I recently decided that it was time to start drinking some of these sours from our cellar. This will begin a full blog series on a selection of sour beers. There will be the Beer Advocate rating system consisting of:

Appearance, Taste, Mouthfeel, and Drinkability. Food pairings will be also described when appropriate.

Tasted on 9/11/2011

Sour 1

Italian Panil Barriguee Oak-Aged Sour Red Ale, Batch #12, 2010, Bottle 1947

(4.5) Appearance: Rusty deep red, minimal head, some lace

(4) Smell: Campari cherry, sharp acidic grapefruit, some barnyard and pipe tobacco leaves

(4) Taste: Sharp sour notes of lemon, cherries up front, fades midway through

(4) Mouthfeel: Tart and carbonation in mouth, medium weight

(4) Drinkability: Smooth start, sour notes hit throughout the mouth, worth trying since Red Ale’s are difficult to come by, could cellar for couple more years to develop further complexity

Serve type: 750 ml bottle poured into a tulip glass

Purchase Place Price: Chicago, IL Binnys $18.99

August 15, 2010

Travel : Portland [PDX]

Filed under: Beer,Food,Restaurants — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 1:44 pm

Portland, OR is a gem of the United States.  Located 2 hrs from the Oregon coast line and about an hour or more from mountains, the city is a young and vibrant place…especially for food, wine, and beer lovers like ourselves.  Earlier this summer, we took a trip down to Portland knowing that our typical “bi-annual” trip from Seattle is likely to cease once we move to St. Louis this fall (more on that in a future post).  Our trips to Portland would be overwhelming to some [see our last “PDX Food Rampage”, at our friend’s Dawn and Eric’s blog: WrightAngle], but they are simply fantastic adventures for the palette.  We drink and eat so much variety, experience such creativity, that we can’t stop going back.  And what’s more, PDX is much cheaper than its West Coast counterpart heavy weights like Seattle, San Fran, and LA.  Here we will attempt to summarize the highlights from our 3 day trip this past July, but it by no means will include all of our adventures.

Olympic Provisions | Our first stop in PDX was Olympic Provisions, which came recommended by our friends Eric and Kye.  Located in an industrial part of southeast PDX, Olympic Provisions is housed in a restored cereal mill.   The spot was created with intent to highlight European and North African styled charcuterie and to showcase local ingredients from farms and producers in the area.  We went for lunch and selected 2 dishes.

Chef w/ cured meats in the background

Signage

Tea Sammy

The first was the “tea sandwich”, made with a well seasoned paste of summer English peas, sprouts, red onions, and ricotta salata on fluffy white bread with no crust.  This was the perfect summer sandwich.  It reminded me of the deliciously light cucumber tea sandwiches my mother and our neighbors would often make for me when I lived in England.  We also ordered the charcuterie plate, which really highlights the masterful qualities of Olympic Provisions.  It came with a house made chorizo that was very true to the art of this sausage variety….robust spices, chewy texture, and beautiful color.  The charcuterie plate also came with house made sopresetta and pork pâté which were also well made and authentic.  We each had a Double Mountain Brewery, Kolsch alongside our lunch.  Olympic Provisions has a large selection, and one could really fill up on lunch or dinner here, but even for an afternoon snack, it is worth a short visit. Olympic Provision’s charcuturie is now becoming more widely available throughout PDX and can be purchased at select stores.

Olympic Provisions

107 Southeast Washington Street
Portland, OR 97214-2103
(503) 954-3663

Olympic Provisions on Urbanspoon

(more…)

May 25, 2010

Food | Beer : Seattle Beer Week-Recap

Filed under: Beer,Food,Restaurants,Seattle — Tags: , — admin @ 8:41 pm

seattlebeerweek copy

Seattle is a beer mecca, an absolutely outstanding city to sample the very best of America’s more recent explosion in craft beer.  For the past 6yrs we’ve been fortunate enough to experience and sample the Northwest’s finest IPAs, porters, stouts and sours, some of which you may have read about in this blog (beer).  This past week Robin and I explored beer, in an intense night-after-night adventure, through the vehicle of Seattle Beer Week 2010.  We tasted so many fabulous beers to write about each in detail here, but I will try to highlight the events, and the beers that we thought stood above the rest.

Chuckanut Beer Dinner at Delancey: Chuckanut is a brewery out of Bellingham Washington and they paired up with arguably Seattle’s best pizza joint Delancey, to bring forth a beer dinner to be remembered.  We shared the fun evening with  our friends Dawn and Eric (WrightAngle).  The dinner was hosted by Kevin Davey of Chuckanut, who described the philosophy, history, and beers from the brewery as the evening progressed.  Basically, the concept for most of the beers was that they are heavily inspired by the travels of the owners and brew master throughout Germany and Eastern Europe.  The beers we had that evening, with the exception of the Stout, were all in the classic German style brewed with German style yeasts, and local German hops.  The Kolsch and the Pilsner were both crisp and delicate, slightly fruity with a mild accent of hops.  The pairing of the Kolsch with Kumomoto oysters and beer-vinegar with shallots was my favorite pairing of the evening, although the Pils was the favorite beer.  All the dishes were well crafted and seasoned perfectly, especially the duck fat roasted potatoes.  The pizzas at Delancey are always the show stopper and we all agreed that the classic Brooklyn, essentially a margherita sans the basil, was the best, with its tangy sauce, beautiful texture, and well seasoned crust.  The final beers of the evening were the Helles, a Munich style beer with crisp finish and slightly sweeter aspect, the Stout which was toasted with hints of coffee and bitter cacao, and an Alt- or fruity German ale, with very malty character.  These beers were all great in their style, but their pairing with the pizza and soup didn’t seem come out as a strength.  In any case, the event was quite fun, and we were exposed to a series of delicious local Northwest brews outside of the tradition of local Northwest IPAs, porters, or stouts.

Delancey

1415 NW 70th St.

Seattle, WA 98117

Delancey on Urbanspoon

Art of the Table open house with Pike Brewing and Dog Fish Head: We’ve been to beer events at Art of the Table before, which have been simply fantastic.  Dustin Ronspies and Matt Younts take their food and beer passions both very seriously, and they pair food nearly perfectly with beer.  Having access to the breadth of excellent choices from Dog Fish Head and Pike Brewery made leaving work early in the mid-afternoon really very worthwhiledogfish1. pike-brewingFirst of all it was a great chance to meet and chat with several  players in the beer industry. We had the great opportunity to talk with Rose Ann and Charles Finkel, owners of Pike Brewing as well as Sam Castiglione of Dog Fish Head, and Matt Younts. It was a small group so we had the chance to ask questions and get the stories behind these 2 brewery’s excellent beers.  The event offered 6 small plates along with 3 beers from each brewery.  The highlights were as follows: The Midas Touch, a spiced beer (DogFish) brewed with a 2700 yr old recipe was Robin’s favorite (I also enjoyed it). Hard to describe, but the best I can do is- it is like drinking saffron infused honey with a hint of malty beer flavor. It was paired well with saffron caulifower, carmelized onion, and hummus flatbread.  We also enjoyed the 90 minute DogFish Head IPA, brewed by injecting hops into a closed kettle each minute for 90 minutes.  This IPA is perfectly balanced and well rounded, even the hop fearing folk are likely to enjoy it. It was paired with an Albacore Tuna Poke, Spicy Jicama, Nori, top on a fried wonton.

Pike Brewing brought forth their Double IPA, which first debuted last year during Seattle Beer week.  This beer has a more chewy hops flavor, a bit more heat, but still has nice malt balance in the finish.  It was paired with a shooter of cumin-corriander carrot soup, topped with cilantro-preserved Lemon-yogurt which contrasted the bitterness of the hops well.  We were told that Pike downtown has lots of great seasonals on tap including a dry wit beer, which sounded fabulous for this time of year.

(more…)

October 11, 2009

Food: Art of the Table-Beer Dinner

Filed under: Beer,Food,Restaurants — Tags: , , — admin @ 8:27 pm

On September 2nd  (we’re a bit behind on our blog posts) we went to Art of the Table for another “supper club” dinner.   We had been to a previous beer dinner with our friends Kye and Eric, and I was blown away by the beer pairings, and more importantly both Robin and Kye who don’t usually drink some of these more rich types of beers, became fascinated at the potential of beer and food pairing.  As soon as we heard another beer dinner was planned we locked in reservations.  Dustin Ronspies (the chef) and Laurie O’Donnell hosted us, alongside the passionate beer aficionado Matt Younts for what amounted to another fascinating exploration of beer and food pairing.

We started by opening up with Cider Aspall which was served with a crostini containing peach, Estrella Family Creamery’s Wynochee River Blue. The crisp yet rounded dry cider was like having a glass of sparkling to open a meal, with the peach and blue cheese on the crostini the pairing was perfect.

Next, we had a salad with frisee, arugula, chanterelles, sweet corn, tomme, pancetta and a basil puree.  This was paired nicely with a Boulevard Saison.   I’ve mentioned before that Boulevard is making some great speciality beer these days, and the Saison Matt brought was a Batch #1, and contains the famous Brettanomyces yeast.  This yeast is sometimes considered a terrible consequence of contamination, except in traditional belgian styles or Lambic variations.  This slightly spicy, bready, funky Saison from Kansas City paired quite well with the salad, the fatty saltiness of the pancetta, and earthy chanterelles in the salad.

Trout with bitter greens and smoked tomato puree

Trout with bitter greens and smoked tomato puree

The third course was trout served with hazelnut basil, smoked tomato jam (one of the highlights of the meal to me), and bitter greens.  The crispy trout and smoked tomato jam had the great sweet, salty, smokey combo, that was a joy in each bite.  The pairing was Hair of the Dog (Portland, OR) Ruth Pale Ale.  A pale malty ale with honey, with grassy vegetal notes.  The beer did a nice job of letting the complexity of the dish shine.

What might have been the best, or near best beer of the evening was Pliney the Elder (RussianRiver),which is one of the most highly coveted beers in the US (A+ on BeerAdvocate, and nearly every other source gives it top marks).  Dustin made us both smile with this dish, which didn’t contain fancy ingredients but was creative, and has inspired Robin and I to look at Chicken wings in a way different way than finger licking andwatching football.  Dustin served the wings confit, with curry powder, cilantro cream, on top of a polenta cake with chipotle chile, and topped with frisee.  The dish had some heat, but the cream added a nice balance, and the beer really unified the flavors.  Pliney the Elder is simply an outstanding beer in every regard.  Any serious beer drinker who hasn’t tasted this beer, should seek it out ASAP!  It contains a beautifully floral hopped aroma, with a bit of citrus coming through.  Initially it tastes much like an IPA but it is balanced so effectively with maltiness, so perfectly, that even those who pucker with a bitter IPA will smile after a gulp.  (We took some home with us, because, I wanted a whole bottle for Robin and I, to try again).  GO BUY SOME, if you can find it! (more…)

Older Posts »

Powered by WordPress

Switch to our desktop site